31 May, 2010

On Invitation from the owner of the Royal Enfield distributor, I traveled to Seoul today.

Overcast weather and threat of rain were no deterrent. Heading out around mid-day, I found traffic to be typical of Korean City riding. Allow me to describe riding in city traffic here. Basically you use lots of throttle and brake, take any opportunity you can to advance, split lanes, cut corners hold on tight and ride like your life depends on it. If you are not even a little aggressive, then you will get nowhere and be stuck in traffic all day.

It took me an hour and 40 minutes to get to Seoul for Camp Humphreys. A distance of about 65 miles and this was pretty good time.

I arrived at the Royal Enfield shop earlier than I had anticipated. There I met Miss Im (pronounce "EEM") only to learn that this was her first day on the job and I was in fact her first customer. Initially she seemed a bit overwhelmed, but was able to help find the cost of a local hotel, as I had planned on staying the night.

The Hotel Hinoon:

This was an adventure in itself. the lodging that I had stumbled upon was in fact a Lovers Hotel. the price was right at about $40 a night and the sheets were clean. I knew the place was clean as the chlorine based cleaner they use burned the hair out of my nostrils when I walked into the room. The first clue that this was not the holiday inn was when I turned on the TV, heavily edited Japanese Porn was showing. it was then I noticed the condoms and lotion on the nightstand. Nice.

Lunch:

After getting a room and feeling a bit hungry I set out to find some lunch. The only place open was a Korean BBQ place. They were obviously not used to seeing foreigners in this part of town and a 6'2" white guy dressed in black leather was surely the last thing they expected. Regardless they seemed friendly and served me. All I wanted was some BBQ pork and some rice. What I got was enough food to feed three people and leftovers. I got the rice and the pork and about 10 various side dishes. Spice on the pork immediately set my mouth on fire as well as most of the side dishes. I felt bad because I could not eat all that the had put in front of me. Where I come from, food is not allowed to go to waste and you eat what you are served. This case it was simply too much or too hot. I paid my bill and left before any body parts melted off.

Meeting Bong and Wilton

After a short nap I rode up the the shop to met the owner, Bong Jae YOO and his friend Yun Kyoung-ho (Wilton). Both are sharply dressed and very well spoken. Bong speaks excellent English with a bit of an English Accent, evidence of his studies abroad. Wilton also speaks excellent English. We sat, had a coffee and conversation and exchanged gifts, something which is common in asian cultures. For this I came prepared with some patches. I also got to Check out a BSA M20 project that Bong is working on. About this time another rider named Hun (pronouced HOON) arrived with his girlfriend on the pillion. He is a younger man and does not speak much english.

Dinner:

It was decided that we would walk to a resteraunt closeby so that we could eat and drink a bit. We arrived the resteraunt and I found that it was the same place I had eaten lunch. The waitress even pointed out that I had been there earlier. (at least what I think she said) we headed back towards the bikes as Bong had another idea of where to go, but we would have to ride to get there.

Now here was the fun part as I had never ridden with other Korean riders before. The best way to describe their riding style is fearless. I thought I was pretty good at getting through traffic and was quickly proven wrong. These guys split lanes with millimeters to spare and they make it look easy. We arrived without incident to the Majang-dong Meat Market and a small diner that sells the freshest beef in town.

The meal was fantastic. Fresh cuts of beef cooked at the table over hot coals, vegetables, garlic and mushrooms, rice wine, and great conversation. This is the first time I had ever had raw beef liver as well as cow stomach. Both are considered a delicacy and can only be bought at this market as it has to be consumed immediately after it is cut out of the cow.

After Dinner Ride:

Bong led us on a ride up what he called a "little hill", actually he took us to the to northern wall of Seoul near the Blue House (where the Korean President lives). The view was of Seoul at night was spectacular. From this vantage you can see all of Seoul and beyond. Bong had mentioned that he normally only bring dates up here at night, but decided to make an exception. I am glad that he did.

The road going up and down this "little hill" was a fabulous twistie road that was an absolute pleasure.

Bong then led us on a tour of the city that was almost overwhelming. So much to see and take in, but be aware that you are on a bike and the busses don't stop. Down "Main Street" near Seoul City Hall, passed Seoul Train Staition and any number of other sites that I just cannot recall right now.

we ended up back at the shop chatted a bit, installed a helmet lock on my bike, which Bong insisted that I needed and to which I am grateful. We ended the night around midnight with the promise to get together again soon. A promise I intend to keep.

So if you are in Seoul check out the Royal Enfield shop in Seongsu (http://www.royalenfield.co.kr/) and catch a ride with Bong and the Royal Enfield Owners Club of Korea. These guys are a class act and I am glad to call them friends.